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© 2008
Troop 330





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Extreme
Backpacking Tips:
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Reducing Backpack Weight
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Look for Innovative Ways
to Reduce Backpack Weight:
Take time--before, during, & after each hike--to
peruse your gear, your packing habits, even the clothing you wear, for ways
to reduce the weight that you must bear. You may be surprised at the amount
of unnecessary weight that you inflict on yourself. Keep in mind, though, it
is a process. A long-term commitment and challenge. You will, undoubtedly,
think of something new practically every trip.
Here is a compilation of Backpack Weight Reducing
Tips -- some are original, some are commonly known and used.

Backpacking is one of
the merit badges for which I am a registered counselor. If you have
questions and wish to work on this merit badge please contact me.—
Curt Kamichoff
Weight Reducing Tips:
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3 lb backpack, 2 lb sleeping
bag, 3 lb tent |
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Look for multi-functional gear
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Seek out TITANIUM--stove,
pots, pans, cups, tent pegs, etc.
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Toothbrush / Tooth Powder /
Dental Floss / Sewing Kit
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Carry Only the Water You Need
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Eliminate Map Edges
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About Stuff Sacks
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Mete-Out Appropriate
Portions !
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Trim Excess Off Clothes
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Trim Unneeded Parts From
Backpacks
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Remove
Manufacturer's Labels
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Boots, Shoes &
Laces
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Makeshift Pillows
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About Scouring Pads
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About Camp Shoes
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Use Candles, In
Place of Batteries
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Replace your
Alkaline Batteries with Lithium
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About Thermal Mugs
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Pump Excess Water From
Water Filter
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Gear Uses in
Emergencies
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About Eating Utensils
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About Stove Fuel
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Blacken Your Pots !
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Use Sugarless
Drinks !
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Eat Heavy Foods, First
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More Backpacking Tips &
Tricks


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This is, perhaps, your biggest opportunity to
reduce backpack weight. Seek out a good 3 lb pack that is relatively
comfortable with 35 to 40 pounds in it. Since, most of the time, you will
be carrying less than that, the suspension of that 3 lb pack
should be adequate for you. Get a good 2 lb, 20 degree, goose-down (or
comparable synthetic) sleeping bag and a good 3 lb 3 or 4-season tent.
Let's see, 7 lbs minus 3 lbs (pack), 3.5 lbs minus 2 lbs (bag), 5 lbs
minus 3 lbs (tent)--that's a weight reduction of 7.5 pounds.
SEVEN AND A HALF POUNDS !!!
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Pots, stoves, backpack stays, tent pegs, anything
metal, if made of titanium, will be significantly lighter than any other
metal. For example, my titanium cook pot (with lid & handles) weighs 6 oz.
That compares to 14 oz. for comparable MSR or SIGG lightweight stainless
steel and about 10 oz. for Traveling Light's Aluminum entry. For stoves,
my titanium Primus butane/propane (with windscreen) weighs 3.4 oz,
compared to MSR Whisperlite--12.7 oz, and Camping Gaz Micro Bleuet--7 oz.
(both without windscreen). So far, in my experience, strength and
durability of titanium products seem to be more than adequate.
NOTE: Never
mind the naysayers who scoff at those who purchase Titanium products. If
they could afford it, they'd get some too. You can't eat titanium, but for
a lightweight packer, it's as good as sliced bread.
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Toothbrush / Tooth
Powder / Dental Floss / Sewing Kit
Assuming you use more than just your finger to
clean your teeth, here's a tip or two.
First find a toothbrush with a short head, say 3/4
inch. Next, cut off the handle--leaving about two inches to hold onto--and
finish it off by sanding-down the rough edges. Oh yeah, drill a few holes
in the remaining handle -- if it's a fat handle, hollow it out with your
drill. Be creative!
Tooth powder is lighter than paste, and can be
meted out much easier. I measure a small palm-full for each day on the
trail and store it in a very-small, very light plastic container which
resembles a 35mm film container, but is about 1/2 the size and weight.
If you are going to carry dental floss, two
suggestions. Take the floss, leave the plastic container behind. Rather
than packing a sewing kit, use the waxed floss as emergency thread for
gear repair. Put a sewing needle or two in your first aid kit or
somewhere else safe.
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So only carry what you need. Here are two
potential ways to reduce the amount of H2o you're packing
(1) If you know the area you're in and can be
sure there are watering holes up ahead, pack only enough to get to the
next water hole. Also, (2) if you drink as
much as your innards can hold before you hit the trail and at each water
fill-up, thereafter, you won't need to carry as much, after you get going.
I follow these tips and now, most of the time,
carry at least one pound less on my back because of it. (Caution: If you
alpine scramble or otherwise navigate crosscountry - esp. if you desert
hike - you may need to pack it all - plan carefully.)
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Cut em off ! I know, I know. This is some kind of
neurosis, isn't it. Actually, it's attitude. If it doesn't have AT LEAST
ONE FUNCTION, I don't want it in my pack. I cut off map edges (leaving
just enough room for bearing calculations, notes, longitude & latitude
markings, and other important map attributes.)
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I carry much of my gear in color-coded stuff sacs
and zip-loc freezer baggies. Where I use stuff sacks, I adhere to the
following. (1) Use the right size
sack--wasted space means unnecessary weight. (2)
Cut off labels inside sack (3) Allow just
enough draw-cord so sack can have full opening--cut off the rest and melt
the ends so they won't unravel (4) Use the
strongest-smallest plastic cord-locks you can find. All this may seem
insignificant, but it adds up after a while.
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Mete-Out Appropriate
Portions !
Sunscreen, bug-juice, toothpowder/paste,
condiments, prescription medicine, antacid, vitamin I (ibuprofen), toilet
paper, and anything else for which you can measure usage according to time
(weeks, days, hours). Mete out portions of these items that will be
appropriate for the time you'll be in the backcountry. For some items,
estimate conservatively so that you'll have a little extra if conditions
turn out to be differently from what you anticipated -- (for example,
worse bugs, more sun, bigger headache, etc.). I use little plastic vials
that are similar to film canisters but smaller -- but have same
tight-fitting lids.
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Cut off unnecessary labels and lengths of cord. If
garments have cord locks, replace them with lighter versions, or instead,
use small doubled-up patches of light-weight leather with slits. I've
noticed that some manufacturers have been doing this, also.
If you carry extra clothes for emergencies, cut
off pockets, cords, tags, unneeded linings, etc.
Save some weight on hats by cutting out labels and
replacing plastic adjusting straps with elastic. It feels better and won't
break in the field as easily as the plastic ones.
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Shorten nylon webbing straps wherever possible. I
once saved a quarter pound (4 oz) by removing the hypalon crampon patch
from the top of my pack's lid and the nylon belt loop with foam backing
from the inside (which allows the lid to double as a hip sack when removed
from the pack). In addition, I removed a couple of plastic loop fasteners
on the sides of the lid used as part of the hip sack configuration. Most
of the time, I don't need those parts (and their corresponding 1/4
pound !).
For the times I was taking a long trip which
included some day-hiking or I needed the heavy-duty hypalon patch, I
purchased a second lid.
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I couldn't believe it. I just bought this ultra,
ultralight, high-tech tent and here's this big (5 1/2" x 3 3/4") label on
the outside of the door advertising the tent makers name. The label's
weight was added to by the waterproof tape applied to its opposite side,
on the inside of the tent. Needless to say, I removed the label and the
waterproof tape, then sealed the needle holes with a light bead of
SeamGrip. That label, itself, was not waterproof and, in fact, soaked up
water like a sponge. In the field, that label would have added two to
three ounces of weight to my pack (depending on whether it was dry or
wet).
Remove labels & apply a light bead of SeamGrip
onto the needle holes, wherever possible--tents, packs, bags, clothes,
even on boots (where they put those useless metal gore-tex tags).
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Two tips here. The first, definitely do it. The
second, consider it a potential way to significantly reduce relative pack
weight, but don't take it as gospel. Analyze your own situation,
experiment, and do what's safe and healthful.
Firstly, on shoes and boots, I cut off excess shoe
lace--for two reasons (1) excess shoelace
means unnecessary weight and (2) excess
shoelace means safety hazard in the bush. Ever have a big lace-loop catch
on an exposed root or tangly bush ? After you cut them, scorch/burn/melt
the ends so they won't unravel.
And secondly, as your pack weight goes down, your
requirement for heavy boots is reduced, as well. Since each pound on your
feet is supposedly equivalent to 5 pounds on your back, you can reduce the
relative weight of your pack by getting a pair of lighter weight boots.
If you have, as one lightweight packer terms it,
entered the new paradigm where your pack weight is really low--25 pounds
for four or five days--you might even want to consider going with a sturdy
pair of 2 pound cross-trainers or running shoes. Like I said, though,
there's potential here, but experiment. What works for me, may not work
for you.
Consider the implication. Assuming the "1 pound on
the foot is equal to 5 pounds on the back" theory is true, trading-in the
4 pound boots for a pair of 1 3/4 pound running shoes (with vibram soles)
would decrease your relative pack weight approximately 11 1/4 pounds !
It's at least worth a second thought !
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Instead of carrying a pillow, stuff your clothes
in one of your larger stuff sacs--makes a dandy pillow. Your clothes will
be dry & maybe even warm in the morning.
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Use sand, dirt or moss instead of a scouring pad.
No soap suds in the water & no dirty pad to mess with.
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Although camp shoes are considered a luxury item
for neurotic minimalists, they have multiple uses, most notably, a haven
of rest for weary feet. If you carry them -- and I sometimes do -- look
for lightweight water shoes, rather than lugging along your much heavier
tennies or running shoes. I used to carry a pair of Speedo Surfwalkers
which are several ounces lighter than the Nike Aqua Socks.
Another solution, if you want something just for
shuffling around camp, get a cheap pair of cloth night slippers from one
of the local chain department stores. The slippers are practically
weightless, and if you're lucky, they may even last an entire season.
NOTE: If I'm
on a venture which includes river crossings or swimming in shallow lakes,
I'll still carry my Speedo Surfwalkers.
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Because batteries are heavy, I use my headlamp
only for night travel or answering the midnight call.
Otherwise I use a candle lantern or, more
recently, a candle-lantern converted to oil (it's lighter, cleaner, and
lasts longer). Both can be purchased at just about any outdoor shop. In
addition to providing light for reading and writing, they are excellent
for starting fires, even if the wood is damp.
Keep in mind, this may not be advantageous to you.
It depends on how long you're in the outback and how much light you
require after dark. The longer you are out there and the more you require
artificial light, the more advantage and relative weight
saving you will realize by using the lantern.
NOTE: A tip I
saw in Backpacker Magazine: If you carry an aluminum stove
windscreen, use it as a light reflector placed behind your candle. Another
example of multiple functionality.
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Replace the AA Alkaline batteries in your
flashlights with AA Lithium batteries. Lithium AA batteries weigh 50%
less than alkaline and last about 3 times longer. They only
cost about $5.00 for two, so you actually come out ahead in the long run.
One reader at
BackpackingLight website says he doesn't
carry a candle lantern because the lithium batteries are so light and last
so long - he just uses his Petzl Micro headlamp for everything.
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If you use an insulated mug (hopefully a
lightweight one, like the ones sold by REI, LLBean, Campmor,
Backpacker Magazine, etc.), do you need to take the lid during the
summer ?
Actually, other than during the Winter when a
thermal mug is important to keep your hot drink warm, do you need a mug at
all ? You can save four or five more ounces by leaving the whole mug at
home and using your cooking pot or water bottle for hot drinks.
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After using your water filter, pump it to flush
out remaining water.
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Rather than carry triangular bandages, SAM
splints, bunches of medical tape and such, consider the following:
You can fashion a sling by using a safety pin (or
pins) to (1) attach a shirt sleeve or front
shirt-tail to the top of the shirt or (2)
attach two legs of a pair of fleece pants or thermal underwear bottoms
which have been draped around the victims neck.
Improvise a splint by using
(1) a closed-cell foam, self-inflating sit-pad or sleeping-pad
(2) backpack aluminum stays or
(3) ski and/or hiking poles.
Improvise an emergency litter or stretcher using
(1) a sleeping bag with hiking staffs or
wooden branches for carrying handles or (2) a
closed-cell foam, self-inflating mattress.

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Use parachute cord to fashion traction devices for
traction splints and for securing improvised splints.
Duct tape is also useful for securing splints, as
well as holding protective bandages in place and as an effective
alternative to moleskin.
If your sunglasses break, especially if you are in
the snow, cut small peep holes in duct tape or paper and secure to your
head. If you happen to be carrying cardboard, that works well, also.
NOTE: I've
mentioned the above for the purpose of illustrating the
multi-functionality of gear. To learn more about HOW to use your gear for
medical emergencies, take a mountaineering survival or first-aid course or
study the appropriate literature and practice with a friend.
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Select ultra-lightweight - yet strong - lexan
utensils. As with the toothbrush, cut off as much handle as possible and
sand down the cut corners. Do you really need anything other than a
spoon ?
NOTE: I've
looked at the new titanium utensils & the lexan utensils appear to be, at
least, equally lightweight and strong, for my purposes.
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Test how much fuel your stove uses to cook your
favorite meals & drinks, plan accordingly, and only take the necessary
amount of fuel. If you are using white gas, factor in extra for priming
purposes. Also, regardless of what kind of fuel you use, factor in a
little extra if you are going to higher altitudes where the air is
thinner.
Always cook with a lid on your pots. This enables
better heat retention, so the water boils faster, which uses less fuel,
which reduces the weight on your back !
Also, try to take foods which don't require
cooking. Lunches and snacks, especially. This will reduce the amount of
stove fuel you will need to carry.
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Another tip for using less fuel is to blacken your
cooking pots. A blackened pot will absorb heat faster than a shiny
surfaced one.
Most pots do not come pre-blackened, but over time
may become that way, especially if you use them in an open fire. Of all
the pots in the "kitchen inventory" section of my "gear closet", my SIGG
Inoxal pots are the only ones that actually came with a black outer
surface. However, no matter, I always paint my pots with flat-black stove
paint, as soon as I get them. I recently did this with my Evernew Titanium
pots. The black surface absorbs and distributes heat faster than a shiny
surface.
"............a blackened cook pot disperses and
retains heat better. Therefore, I went down to my local Wal-Mart and
bought a spray can of Black Bar-b-que grill paint and coated the outside
of all my cook pots with it. It (the paint) is rated up to 2000
degrees................"
NOTE: Heat
resistant black paint can be procured at hardware stores - look for stove
paint - and at automotive supply stores - look for engine block paint.
Here's a couple other cooking pot tips that help
maximize the efficiency of your stove:
ROUNDED BOTTOM EDGES:
Flames/heat from your stove can more easily move up the sides of the pot,
thus more surface area is covered.
TIGHT-FITTING LID:
A tight-fitting lid is critical in order to maximize the efficiency of
your stove. If you have a tight-fitting lid, the contents of the pot will
heat faster and, thus, you'll consume less stove fuel.
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Use energy drinks, hot chocolate, etc., either
unsweetened or litely sweetened. Sugar is very heavy. Gatorade
powder--laced with processed white sugar--weighs 2.3 oz per quart. By
contrast, the drinks that I now use weigh .4 oz (sweetened with fructose)
and .22 ounce (unsweetened). A significant difference !
I switched from Gatorade to E.mer'gen-C.
It is produced by Alacer Corporation, and is a "super energy booster with
staying power" containing 25 different electrolytes and has more potassium
than Gatorade. Although each foil packet's net weight is only .21 ounce
(6 grams), it contains 1000 mg of Vitamin C as well as Vitamins B1,
B2, Special Niacin Complexes, B6, B12, Folic Acid, Pantothenic Acid,
Calcium, Magnesium, Zinc, Sodium, 200 mg of Potassium, and Manganese. It
is significantly lighter than Gatorade. It is sweetened with fructose, and
tastes good ! There is also the E.mer'gen-C Lite version, which is without
sweetners, but weighs even less--50% less. Each packet weighs .11 ounce
(3 grams). I use one or two packets per quart of water. It works great
for me!
Just a caution, brought up by Rob Kelly,
that before using a vitamin and mineral supplement make sure your body is
okay with the dosages contained in each package that you consume. Ten
miles into the backcountry is no place to have adverse physical reactions.
Like with the Alacer E.mer'gen-C that I use - don't just take my
word for it, do your own research and make your own judgement as to
whether the stuff is right for you.
Another perspective, submitted by Travis
Moulton on 5/16/03. "Whatever happened to Multi-function? You need carbs
to keep hiking, and getting a few simple carbos every time you take a
drink gives the body a (relatively) continuous flow of calories without
waisting the energy to digest complex carbs. If you go for sugarless
drinks all you are really doing is making yourself carry those extra
ounces (and probably more) in the form of snacks and/or lunches."
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Foods such as, mealpack bars, fresh fruits &
veggies, canned foods, semi-dried sausages, etc., add the most weight to
your pack. Eat them first to lighten your load. |
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Many items of backpacking gear can be used for multiple purposes. The
practice of using one piece of equipment for more than one purpose will
often allow you to leave other equipment items at home. Again, take the
time to scrutinize each piece of gear as to the possibilities.
Multiple Purpose Gear:
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Parachute Cord--clothesline,
securing splints, line for traction splint, food bag line, |
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Swiss Army Knife--knife,
scissors, saw, awl...... |
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Candles--light
for reading/writing, wax as fire starter, wax as waterproofing agent
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Duct Tape--moleskin
substitute, bandage wrap, gear repair (packs, boots, poles...), splint
wrap, emergency sunglasses |
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Sleeping Bag--emergency
stretcher or litter |
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Cooking Pot--bowl
for eating, cup for hot drinks |
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Water Bottle--cup
for hot drinks |
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Backpack Metal
Stays--splints
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Ski / Hiking Poles--avalanche
probe, splints, |
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Snow Shovel--sled
for fun, sled runner for emergency litter, |
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Stuff Sacks--pillows,
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Socks--hand
warmers, |
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Safety Pins--securing
bandages and cloth slings, clothespins, fish hook, hook for hanging
items, .... |
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Clothing--slings,
pillow stuffing, adds loft to sleeping system. |
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Stove Aluminum
Wind Screen--candle
light reflector, funnel for pouring liquids. |
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Dental Floss--sewing
thread, ties, |
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Zip-Loc Freezer
Baggies--carry
items, bowl for preparing & eating food, carry-out container for
garbage. |
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Backpack w/weather
shroud--emergency
bivy sack (for the lower half of the body). |
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Compass sighting
mirror--personal
mirror, emergency signaling device. |
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Tent Pegs--slender
tent pokers with relatively sharp ends (like the titanium pegs sold by
Simon Metals Company) can be used as a piercing tool- for instance, to
pierce thick fabric or leather in order to run a cord through, to make a
repair. Also, for grilling food over a flame. |
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(small, thin,
flexible) Plastic Placemat--sit
pad, place for dirty boots in the tent, and to stand-on while washing.
Other potential uses--stove windscreen (if you're careful), sunshade,
fly swatter? |
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Backpacking
Tips and Tricks
Know your gear: Before
heading out for a trip, make sure you know how to use all the gear first. Try setting the tent
up in your backyard, use your
stove and try cooking the foods you plan to eat while out there. Believe
me it is no fun trying to learn how to setup a tent after dark, in the
pouring rain!
Check your gear: When you
are packing for the trip, check to make sure everything is in good shape and that the tent poles
are really in the tent bag, pot lifter is with the
cookset, fuel bottle has fuel in it, just a general making sure you have everything you need. A checklist
of gear is a quick and easy way to do this, just check off each item as it is packed. Then you will make sure
nothing is left behind.
Trip Itinerary: Make sure
someone you trust, knows where you are going,
and when you will be back. Try to make sure you are back by the time you
said you would be and let that person know you are back. Many Search and
Rescue operations could have been avoided by people doing this there have
been a lot of them that the SAR personnel are out in the woods possibly
risking their lives, looking for someone who is
setting at home by their fire!!
Take it EASY: One of the
reasons to get out there in the 1st place is to relax and enjoy
yourself, so give yourself the time to actually do this.
Look UP!! : When it comes
to finding a good place to pitch your tent, 1st thing you want to do after locating a likely spot, is to Look UP and make sure you are not going to be setting up under a
dead tree, windstorms have a
nasty habit of causing deadfalls to come out of trees, and you do not want
to be under one when it does
Be knowledgeable of Basic
First Aid and CPR: If something happens to someone in your group you
should be able to treat them, but only do this if you are sure you know what you are doing, otherwise you could cause more harm than good
Do not rely upon a cell
phone to call for help, thee are many places that a cell phone will not work out there and you
will not be able to call 911 for help
Maps: If you are going to an
unfamiliar place, acquire a Topo map of the
area and know how to use it and a compass to determine where you are and
where you are going
Trekking poles: Up until I
did the Appalachian Trail I had never used these, but now I am a believer
in them, they make it a lot easier on the knees and back on the downhills and
make balancing while trying to cross a stream a lot easier
Duct tape: I have a few
wraps of duct tape around just about everything I have that I can wrap it
around, water bottles, fuel bottles, food bottles, all of them have 5 or 6 wraps of it around them, you never know when you might need it and it can be used to fix almost
anything
Hydrate: Make sure you
drink a lot of fluids while you are out there, and make sure you filter or treat the water before use; it is no fun
getting a bad case of the runs, halfway thru a trip!!
Sanitation: Even though
you will not be getting a hot shower while packing, it is still easy to keep basically clean, use a bandanna to take a sponge bath with, just make sure you use biodegradable soap and use it away from the
water source
LNT: this stands for Leave
No Trace, if there are already fire rings in the campsite, use them, instead of making
another one, if there is not one, after making and using it,
redistribute the rocks so that the area looks like it did when you got
there. When you leave no one should be able to tell you have been there
Speaking of Fires: Keep
them small, there is no need for a large bonfire out there, a small fire is more than adequate, make sure someone is attending to the fire while it is burning and
make SURE the fire is completely out before leaving it, many forest fires have been started by fires that were not put out
properly!!
Layer up: Instead of
wearing one heavy jacket to stay warm, wear
lighter layers instead, this way you can regulate the body’s heat and do not end up with
sweaty clothes that will cause you to become chilled. Cotton is not a good
idea, use synthetic clothes that are wicking instead, they will dry a lot faster than cotton and will wick the moisture away
from your skin.
Wild animals: Look but do
not disturb. Especially rattlesnakes, they tend to get a little angered if you disturb them!!
Your vehicle:
Unfortunately these days a lot more vehicles left at trailhead are being
broken into. The best way to hopefully avoid this happening to you is to
not leave anything of value in sight, inside the vehicle. I usually even
leave the glove box open so someone looking into the vehicle can see there
is nothing of value in it. It is probably a good idea to leave radar
detectors at home, instead of trying to stash them in the vehicle
Extra set of keys!! : Make
sure someone else in the group has a set of keys to the vehicle you came
in, have had to walk quite a few miles a few times to get to a phone to
call for help, when the only set of keys
to a vehicle were lost !!
Pack as light as possible,
the lighter the pack the more enjoyable it will be to carry it.
Backpacking is about the level of comfort you want to have while out
there. So there are 2 choices here, a heavier pack to have more things to make you more comfortable while
in camp, or foregoing some of the
camp comforts to have a lighter pack to carry. For me it is a balance
between the 2, and you will have to decide what works best for you.
Last but not least: ENJOY
yourself!! Take a lot of breaks to enjoy the views, get to the planned campsite early enough to have plenty of time to get
it set up easily. Stay flexible, if it is pouring the rain when you wake up in the morning, relax a little more and see if it decides to quit. It is not about the
amount of miles you do, but the
amount of enjoyment that you get out of those miles.
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